A long wait for great day of surf.

It’s been a while since I’ve been out and it was definitely starting to show in my attitude and demeanor.  Unfortunately this is the plight of the surfer.  After the incredible Christmas swell, we had a lull during January.  The current month (February) has picked up giving the Mid-Atlantic some chest to head and clean surf.  For those of us that work 9-5 and live in the metro area it’s been unfortunate, because it has occurred during the work week.  So we grit our teeth, fight back the “no-surf anxiety”, smile, and continue to live our lives.

 48th Street

What do we do?  Some immerse themselves in work and family, while others take a surf vacation to San Diego, Puerto Rico, Costa Rica, Hawaii, etc.  Most turn to the “Mountains” and “snow-surf”.  Those of us otherwise distracted, myself included, turn to the gym and the pool to stay in shape for the next swell, which is a topic another post.

 Barrels everywhere! 

Well my friends, all the waiting paid off.  Today, Sunday 2010-Feb-28, was a good day to surf.   The surf was stomach to chest with an occasional head high and clean.  So how did we get here?  Monday, the weekend was looking dismal with clean, ankle high surf.  Wednesday, the reports showed knee to waist and clean.  As the week progressed it was upgrade to waist to stomach.  Finally Saturday, it was upgraded to waist to chest and clean.

A fellow in a barrel north peak at 48th street.

 

After seeing the upgraded report I split DC and shot back to OC to get a jump on the surf, despite the evening’s plans.  Low tide was at 12:30 with cleaner and bigger sets in the morning.  I decide the falling tide into dead low would be the way to go.  The winds were 10-15 mph out of the west going northwest.  As I approached the beach the sky turned dark and sleet began to fall.  Great start…  This only lasted a few minutes.

 

48^th street was nice with the two main peaks, one north and one south of the jetty.  About 20 total people scattered between the peaks.  After snapping a few shots, I went south and checked the swell.  It was nice with no crowd.  After a fight with the suit I headed out.  The paddle out was easy and surprisingly the suit didn't feel too restricted.  I was so glad I’ve been hitting the gym.

Nice A Frame -- 48th

As I sat and waited for the next peak I began to wonder how I would perform on the first wall.  After all it has been two long months.  Alright, here it comes.  Paddle!  Paddle!  Pop!  It was a beautiful chest high left, which setup with a nice barrel!  The session produced a bunch of fun rides.  Some with nice barrel sections, other with good shoulders, both lefts and rights.  Towards the end of the session as the wind picked up and the tide went slack the waves began to close out.  However there were still a few standout peaks up and down the beach.  At this point the cold was setting in to my extremities and it was time to get out. 

What did I think?

Wave Height: Waist to chest, occasional head, at certain spots.

Wave Face Conditions: Clean

Overall Conditions: Clean.

Weather: 43 very cloudy with spots of sun. 

Wind: 15 mph west going northwest

Water Temp: 40 full winter gear

Surfing level: Beginner to intermediate.

Wave Type: Very fun and clean


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